Weaving-Types of looms

Weaving:

 Weaving is the textile art in which two threads, named warp and weft are interlaced with each other at right angles to make cloth or fabric

The warp threads run vertically on the piece of fabric, while the weft runs horizontally.   Fabric is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the weft threads are woven through them, back and forth. 

The weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven". Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in artistic designs.

Basic weaving method

Shedding

Picking

Beating in 

Shedding:

The vertical space between the raised and upraised warp yarns called shed, and the process is called shedding. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses.(the frame with headdles is known as the harness frame). The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.

Picking:

The space between two warp yarns (down raised and upraised) also known as a shed, the weft yarn is inserted using a carrier called the shuttle, this process is called picking. In modern looms like air jet or water jet, the weft is not carried by shuttle but with air blow or water pressure.

Beating in:

Between the heddles and the take-up roll, the warp threads pass through another frame called the reed (which is similar to a comb). The portion of the fabric that has already been formed but not yet rolled up on the take-up roll is called the fell. After the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, the weaver uses the reed to press (or batten) each filling yarn against the fell.

Back Process for weaving:

Warping

Sizing

Drawing

Warping 

This is the process where warp yarn is rolled on a beam called warp beam.

Types of Warping:

Beam/Direct warping • (Gray/Monocolour fabric)

Sectional/Indirect warping • (Warp patterns: Stripes and Checks)

Ball warping • (Denim fabric)

Sizing: 

A chemical applied on warp yarn to give strength to yarn so that it cannot break with friction and tension of loom, this process is called sizing. A wide variety of sizing materials are used including starch, polyvinyl alcohol, carboxymethyl cellulose, gums, glues, acrylic film, synthetic polymers, and copolymers. For staple-fiber yarns (or spun yarns), starch and polyvinyl alcohol are the size films most often used.

“Sizing is half weaving”

Drawing:

After sizing warp yarn ends are passed through headdles and reed, this is called drawing. Drawing the process responsible for designs of fabrics

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Yarn Manufacturing - Yarn Spinning

 

Yarn Manufacturing

Yarn manufacturing is a sequence of processes that convert raw cotton fibers into yarn suitable for use in various end-products. A number of processes are required to obtain the clean, strong, uniform yarns required in modern textile markets

Yarn manufacturing produces yarns for various woven or knitted end-products (e.g., apparel or industrial fabrics) and for sewing thread and cordage. Yarns are produced with different diameters and different weights per unit length. While the basic yarn manufacturing process has remained unchanged for a number of years, processing speeds, control technology, and package sizes have increased. Yarn properties and processing efficiency are related to the properties of the cotton fibers processed. The end-use properties of the yarn are also a function of processing conditions.

Yarn Manufacturing Processes

Blow Room

Input:  Fiber Bales

Output: Lap

Objective:

·         To open the fibers.

·         To remove the trash.

·         To mix the fibers.

·         To make a uniform lap sheet.

 

Carding

Input: Lap

Output: Carded Sliver

Objective:

·         To remove fine trash.

·         To remove short fibers, neps, motes, and foreign materials too.

·         To produce regular sliver.

 

 

 

 

Draw Frame

Input: Carded Sliver

Output: Regular Sliver

Objective:

·         To parallel the fibers.

·         To blend and mix the fibers.

·         To reduce weight per unit length.

·         To make a uniform sliver.

 

Lap former

Input: Regular Sliver

Output: Lap

Objective:

·         Forming the interfacing or lap, which is employed to feed the combing machine.

 

Combing

Input: Lap

Output: Combed Sliver

Objective:

·         To remove short fibers.

·         To remove fine trash and dirt.

·         To parallel and straight the fibers.

·         To make a uniform sliver.

 

Drawing (finisher)

Input: Combed Sliver

Output: Drawn Sliver

Objective:

·         To parallelize the fibers.

·         To make a uniform sliver.

 

 

 

 

 

Simplex

Input: Drawn Sliver

Output: Roving

Objective:

Draft the material.

·         Insert a small amount of twist.

·         To make bobbin with roving of conical shape.

 

Ring Spinning

Input: Roving

Output: Yarn

Objective:

·         Drafting (attenuation).

·         Insertion of twist for strengthens the yarn.

·         To wind the yarn on to the ring tube/bobbin

 

Cone Winding

Input: Yarn

Output: Yarn Cone

Objective:

·         To transfer the yarn from ring cop/tube. To a large package (weight: 2-2.5 lbs)

·         To remove the faults present in the yarn.

·         To get better quality of yarn

 

Reeling

Input: Yarn Cone

Output: Hanks

Objective:

·         To clean the slub.

·         To make hanks (1680) each.

 

 

 

 

 

Bundling and Bailing

Input: Hanks

Output: Bails

Objective:

·         To make a Bundle. (bundles of 10 Lbs)

·         To make a bale for marketing. (Bales of 40 Lbs)

 

End Notes:

Yarns processes summary (Blow room, Carding, Draw frame, Lap former, Combing,  Drawing, Simplex, Ring, winding, Reeling, and bundling)

 

 

Textile Raw Materials/ TRM / Types of Textile Fibers

 Textile Raw Materials/ TRM / Types of Textile Fibers

Raw material plays an important role in any industry.  In textiles, Fibers are the basic raw material which later become end product that is Garment

Introduction to Fibers

Word Fiber originated from the Latin word Fibra. Fibers are the small heir like tissues, obtained from animals, plants, or other sources which are small in length. Fibers can be natural or manmade.

Textile fiber classification

Fibers are classified into two main categories,

·         Natural Fibers

·         Man-Made Fibers

Natural Fibers

Natural Fibers are the fibers taken from organic sources like Animals, and Plants

Natural fibers are of three types.

·         Vegetable origin

·         Mineral origin

·         Animal origin

Vegetable Origin

Vegetable Fibers composed of cellulose, which is made up of sugar and starch. Fibers in form of bundles are held together with the help of natural resins and gums that are present in different parts of plants like leaves, stem, etc. Vegetable fibers can be divided into the following categories.

·         Stem Fibers- also known as bast fibers and taken from the inner side of the bark

·         Leaves Fibers-extracted from leaves-present in lengthwise

·         Fruits and seeds fibers-Comprises of the hairs from seeds and flosses

Examples of vegetable fibers:

Roselle, Cotton, Hemp, Jute, Flax, Abaca, Piña, Ramie, Sisal, Bagasse, and Banana.

Animal origin

7% of the total textile fibers consist of animal fibers. Despite their limited production, they have a vital role in textiles.

Major Animal fibers are as follow:

Wool Fibers and hair fibers,

Fibers extracted from animals having fur, these fibers are widely used as textile fibers. Wool fibers are mainly known for sheep extracted. All the hair and wool fibers are formed of keratin so their chemical structure is related, but they exhibit different physical characteristics such as length, shapes, and fineness.

Silk Fibers

Fiber took from the cocoon of the silkworm. The production of silk in all the textile fibers is very low i.e. 0.25% of the total textile fibers. Despite this fact, it is a very important textile fiber and it is expensive when compared with other textile fibers.

Mineral fibers

The natural fiber that falls in the category of minerals is asbestos. It is a set of silicate minerals that are present naturally. It is one of the strongest fibers that are found naturally. Asbestos is used as fiber since ancient times

 

Man-Made Fibers

Natural fibers cannot fulfill the demand of world textiles, that’s why using advance technology human has made fibers. We can produce long-chain molecules from very simpler chemicals. By using this technique, we have learned to produce polyester and nylon.

Types of Man-Made Fibers

·         Regenerated Fibers

·         Synthetic fibers

Regenerated Fibers

Regenerated Fibers are also known as Natural polymer fibers, in which fiber-forming substance is taken from a natural source. Regenerated fibers are sub-categorized as follow:

·         Cellulose fibers

·         Cellulose ester fibers

·         Protein fibers

·         Miscellaneous natural polymer fibers

 

 

 

 

Synthetic Fibers

The synthetic fibers are sub-categorized according to their chemical structure. Some of the commercially important synthetic fibers are as followed;

·         Polyesters

·         Polyamides

·         Polyvinyl

·         Polyurethanes

Polyolefin

History of Textiles and Clothing

 

Clothing is one of the basic needs of humans just like food, water, and air. Textiles are one of the oldest activities of humans. Even after the modernization of textiles and machinery, there are 4 basic steps that are the same as ancient clothing procedures. Which are as follow:

·         Harvesting and cleaning cotton or wool

·         Carding and spinning into threads

·         Weave these threads into cloth

·         Fashion and sew the cloth into garments

Ancient Textile Materials

·         Wool

·         Linen

·         Cotton

·         Silk

·         Hemp

·         Flax

·         Jute

In ancient times, silk and fine linen were supposed to be the symbol of high class, while cotton and thick linen were cheaper. Hemp in Greek and Latin terminology was cannabis that led to the word canvas as hemp was used for making sails of boats.    Flax or fine linen was used for burial shrouds of Egyptian pharaohs. Similarly, nettle was used for making fishing nets in olden times.

India is rich in plant resources and the use of a variety of natural fibers such as banana, pineapple, sisal, hemp, coconut, palm, grasses, etc was widely prevalent in olden times. Their use became limited once cotton acquired the prime status of plant fibers. In cotton production, organic cotton accounts for a very small percentage of total cotton production. Silk, linen, and jute are other natural fibers that have continued to enjoy popularity.

Ancient Textile Machinery

Spinning

 Hand spinning, Spindle spinning, Spinning wheels, Distaff, Spindle whorl, Saxony wheel, are the ancient methods used for spinning yarn.

While after the industrial revolution, Spinning Jenny (1764), Spinning frame, Water Frame, Sinning Mule (1779), Flyer Spinning.  Ring Spinning (1828), Cap spinning.  Open End Spinning (20^th century) Repco self twist Spinning, Twist less Spinning, Spinning Folding, Front Folding, Jet Spinning, Bobtex ABS, Bobtec ICS  were introduced.

 

Weaving

A.      Handloom

B.      Power loom

 

A. Handloom

·         Primitive loom

·         Pit loom

·         Frame loom

·         Chittaranjan loom

·         Hattersley loom

B. Power loom

·         Air-jet loom

·         Water jet loom

·         Rapier loom

·         Multiphase loom

 

Interesting Fact!

The English words "cotton" and "mohair," and "taffeta" and "seersucker," derive, respectively, from Arabic and Persian.

Introduction to Textiles

 Introduction of Textiles

The word Textiles comes from "texere", derived from Latin, meaning "to weave". in our daily life we use to wear clothes, which we all know manufactured in some textile factory but have you ever wonder how textile factories make these clothes? What are the processes which make these clothes? 

Subscribe to our blog and we will tell you the basics of textiles.

 

Textiles, especially fabrics are the main component of finished garments because they are the main raw material for garments. Therefore, it is important to know the sequence of making fabric from the fiber. Product quality is the main goal now. Without knowledge of textile production, that is, fibers, yarns, and fabrics, it is impossible to maintain the quality of clothing. Before dwelling in detail on the entire production process of the garment, let's see what the basic textile processes are.

Raw materials

Raw materials of textiles are segmented in 2 categories.

·         Natural (fibers are taken from natural processes like plant and animals)

·         Synthetic (fibers are taken from manmade processes like polyester)

Natural Fibers are cotton, wool, flax, hemp, coir, abaca, jute, sisal, silk, cashmere.

Synthetic fibers are Rayon, Polyester, spandex, vinyon, saran, 

Spinning

Spinning is the initial process for garment making, where fibers are spun to make yarns.

Weaving

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Finishing

Finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or feel of the finished fabric.

Garment 

The garment industry makes the final product of textile processes. A garment is a wearable end product. Like shirts, pants, jeans, trousers, etc

 

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Raw materials of the textile industry